First off, we'll go through a list of equipment. The most important part of the whole operation is a Reloading Press. Since this is aimed at new reloaders, I am not going to get into Turret or Progressive presses. You can start out on one of these if you want, but just know that the learning curve will be much steeper than with a Single-Stage. Whatever you get, make sure you have a place to mount it securely (My bench is bolted to the wall, and is reinforced to handle the stresses from the press), however how much space you have (and where it is) will dictate your set up. There are a lot of options out there, so be sure to find one that fits your situation.
(Left to Right) RCBS Rockchucker, Lee Classic Cast, Hornady Lock-n-Load
There are many brands, and most of them are very similar to each other. I prefer the RCBS rock chucker supreme for its simplicity, solid construction, and very few gimmicky 'features'. Any will do, just do enough research to satisfy yourself you are getting the press you prefer. In most cases, a single stage press has a built in mechanism for priming brass; if you want to do that off-press you can either get a bench mounted case-primer or a handheld model. Neither will be dicussed here, but they are pretty straight forward. I prefer to prime all my handgun and .223 brass on a bench mounted primer, while the rest of my rifle cases are primed on the press.
(Left to Right) RCBS Partner Press, Lee Reloader
At some point, most people end up buying a smaller utility press for the dirtier jobs (decapping, case forming, etc etc) in order to keep the larger, more expensive press from getting screwed up or clogged with grime. Here are two that are relatively cheap. Next thing we need is a set of dies with the appropriate shellholder. These can range from $30 for the base line models up to a couple hundred for match grade offerings. Shellholders are cheap, so I prefer to keep one in the case for each die set (as opposed to one giant shellholder set that would take up space on my bench).
(Left to Right) a 2-die set for bottle-neck rifle cartridges, a 3-die carbide pistol set
Next, we will need a way to measure our powder charge. There are lots of ways to do this, from simple balance-beem style scales costing under $20, an electronic scale, or a high tech scale/powder dispenser that costs hundreds of dollars.
(Left to Right) RCBS Chargemaster, RCBS electronic scale, Balance Beam Scale, Trickler
I chose to go with a RCBS Chargemaster because I mainly reload precision rifle ammo, but I also use it to double check the charges in my powder thrower. However, I still keep a scale and a powder trickler handy in case the power goes out or something breaks. If you don't feel like hand trickling all your charges or waiting on the dispenser, you can do what I do for pistol ammo; buy a powder measure.
(Left to Right) RCBS, Lee and Hornady Powder Measures
They are very easy to use, but the accuracy of the dispensed powder is subject to the consistency with which you operate the mechanism. Micrometer adjustments will help this significantly, but are not required.You will also need a good case trimmer if you will be loading rifle cartridges (where rifle cases tend to stretch after being fired, pistol brass will actually contract over time; trimming is counterproductive in most cases). There are lots and lots of variations, but my little hand cranked model has yet to fail me. Be sure to get ahold of the proper neck guide and shellholder to suite your chosen caliber(s).
(Left to Right) RCBS Case Trimmer, Hornady Case Trimmer
Last, but not least (in fact, its the most important investment you will be making) is your load books. Do not hesitate to buy more than one; in fact, I have a copy of each manufacturers load book sitting on my shelf, for comparison, research or double checking. I have found that most holes that exist in one book are usually filled in by another. I also have begun buying a "loadbooks USA" book for every caliber I reload; it has lots of information, as well plenty of pages for specific firearm information (chamber dimension, barrel length, pet loads, etc.). You will also need measuring tools, the most basic and versatile of which is a good set of calipers. At this stage, a solid set of electronic calipers is all you need; however, if you want a set of the super accurate high-precision ones, thats your call.
(Left to Right) Franklin Arsenal, Hornady, Lyman
(Left to Right) Hodgdon, Sierra, Speer, and Lyman load books
The final thing I highly recommend is some kind of instructional book. The best one available right now is "The ABC's of reloading". There is also a DVD out there by RCBS called "Precisioneered Handloading" that is very informative as well, and much better for the visual learners in the crowd.
(Left to Right) The ABC's of Reloading, RCBS Precisioneered Handloading DVD
Now all you need to do is get your nose into your load books, and find an appropriate powder and primer combination for the caliber you will be reloading. NEVER EVER deviate from the listed load information, especially in your initial load work. I'm not going to go into detail with processes, because that takes more time than I have and it will just be a copy of what already written in the ABC's of Reloading. I will however add a few words of advice that I managed to discover in my first year or so of reloading.
1. Do not try to outsmart yourself. Follow the steps until you are proficient before you start adding extra BS like neck turning, neck sizing, fire forming, etc etc.
2. Start out with standard grade ammo; don't jump into cast lead, match-grade bullets or craziness like that off the blocks. There are many sources online with great resources on all manner of reloading topics, so make sure that you research things thoroughly once you are a proficient reloader.
3. Never assume anything when it comes to Overall Case Length or Powder Charges; if its not written down in a reputable publication, then its not trustworthy.
4. Do not vacuum up spilled powder.
5. Keep all flammables (powder, primers, etc) in their original packaging until you intend to use them. Don't be that guy with a jar full of primers that falls off the bench and explodes.
6. When in doubt, hit the online forums. We have all been there, and we know where to find the answers. Theres no point blowing yourself up when you could have taken two minutes and found the right way to do it.
7. Never ever leave powder in your powder measure when you are not loading. It will turn into a brick and you will be stuck cleaning up a highly flammable mess.
8. Do not position your loading set up near carpet. Gun powder plus plush carpet is a disaster in the making (hence #4).
9. For your first 5 or 6 batches, always check, double check and re-check everything before it ever touches a firearm.
10. Never ever EVER fire someone else's reloads in your own firearm. Not out of paranoia per se, just everyone screw up now and again; don't be the one to reap someone else's whirlwind.
Anyhoo, thats all I can think of for the moment. Will drop a comment if I think up anything else.
Be safe.
